When an RV and trailer service shop in the Urbandale area decided to add a rotary 2-post lift last year, the biggest question wasn’t the lift itself — it was whether their existing concrete slab could handle it. That’s a common story for shops that grew up doing tire rotations and brake work on ramps and floor jacks, then realized they needed real wheel access to compete. We walked this shop through slab evaluation, rebar requirements, the install day, and what changed in their first service cycle. If you’re running an RV or trailer shop and wondering whether your building is ready, this is the real timeline.
See the same Rotary 2-post models we specced for this Urbandale-area shop, sized for trailer axles, dual-wheel setups, and heavier RV chassis work.
Why Slab Thickness Came First, Before Any Lift Talk
Before we quoted a single model number, we asked this shop for their slab thickness, because a rotary 2-post lift anchors directly into concrete and a lift with a heavy trailer or Class A motorhome overhead puts real sustained load on that anchor point. Most manufacturers, including Rotary, spec a minimum of 4 inches of solid, unreinforced concrete at 3,000 PSI for a standard 10,000-12,000 lb lift, but RV and trailer work pushes toward the top of that capacity range regularly, so we don’t cut it close.
This shop’s original slab was original to the building and measured just under 4 inches in the bay they wanted to use, with no rebar and some visible surface cracking near an old floor drain. Rather than anchor into questionable concrete and risk a bolt pulling loose under a loaded trailer, we recommended a 6×6 foot reinforced pad, 5 inches thick, doweled into the existing slab with rebar tied in a grid pattern. It added about a week to the timeline, but it’s the difference between a lift that’s solid for fifteen years and one that starts working its anchors loose within eighteen months of heavy trailer traffic.

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