When your car lift stops working correctly, every minute of downtime costs you money. The bay sits empty, the technician stands idle, and the customer waits. A car lift troubleshooting guide for Iowa shop owners and technicians can help you identify the problem, determine whether it is something you can fix yourself, and know when to call for professional service.
Auto Lift Services provides repair and emergency service for all lift brands across Iowa. This troubleshooting guide covers the most common problems we see on service calls — and the diagnostic steps that will help you communicate the issue clearly when you call us, getting your bay back in service faster.
Problem: Lift Will Not Raise
This is the single most common car lift troubleshooting guide Iowa call we receive. The technician presses the up button and nothing happens — or the motor runs but the lift does not move.
If the motor does not run at all:
1. Check the circuit breaker: The dedicated 208-230V breaker for the lift may have tripped. Reset it. If it trips again immediately, stop — there is a short circuit that needs professional diagnosis.
2. Check the disconnect switch: Many lift installations include a lockout disconnect near the power unit. Verify it is in the ON position. Cleaning crews and other technicians sometimes switch these off.
3. Check the control button: Lift control buttons take abuse. If the button feels loose, mushy, or does not click, the internal switch may be broken. Try pressing it firmly. If the button housing is cracked or water-damaged, the switch likely needs replacement.
4. Check the contactor: Open the power unit electrical enclosure (disconnect power first). Look at the motor contactor — a large relay with heavy-gauge wires. If the contactor coil is burned (you may smell burnt insulation), the contactor needs replacement.
5. Check for a thermal overload trip: Many lift motors have a built-in thermal overload protector. If the motor overheated on a previous cycle, the thermal switch trips and must cool down and be reset (usually a red button on the motor housing). If the motor trips on thermal overload repeatedly, it is drawing excessive current — which means the pump is seized or the motor windings are failing.
If the motor runs but the lift does not raise:
1. Check the hydraulic fluid level: This is the number one cause. The reservoir sight glass or dipstick will show low fluid. A pump running without adequate fluid cavitates (whines loudly) and cannot build pressure. Top off with the correct fluid and check for leaks.
2. Listen to the pump: A healthy pump has a smooth hum. A high-pitched whine indicates cavitation (air in the system). A grinding or knocking noise indicates internal pump damage.
3. Check for a stuck relief valve: The pressure relief valve may be stuck open, recirculating all fluid back to the reservoir. This is a car lift troubleshooting guide Iowa issue we see frequently after cold snaps — thickened fluid can unseat the relief valve ball.
4. Check for a major leak: Inspect every hydraulic line, fitting, cylinder, and the power unit itself for active fluid loss. A blown hose or fitting can dump the reservoir in seconds.
Problem: Lift Drifts Down When Raised
A lift that slowly sinks after being raised to working height has a hydraulic leak — either internal or external. This is a serious safety concern. Always engage the mechanical locks when working under a vehicle. Never rely on hydraulics alone.
Diagnostic steps:
1. Raise the lift to working height with no vehicle on it. Mark the carriage position on the column with tape. Wait 30 minutes. If the carriage has moved down, the problem is in the hydraulic system.
2. Check for external leaks: Inspect every fitting, hose, and cylinder for dripping fluid. A small external leak is the best-case scenario — tighten the fitting or replace the hose and the drift stops.
3. If no external leak is visible: The leak is internal. Either the cylinder piston seal is bypassing (fluid passes from one side of the piston to the other inside the cylinder) or the check valve in the control block is leaking (fluid bleeds back to the reservoir). A car lift troubleshooting guide Iowa technician can distinguish these by isolating the cylinder from the control block and retesting.
Problem: Lift Raises Unevenly
One side of the lift goes up faster than the other, or one carriage reaches full height while the other lags behind.
For two-post lifts:
1. Check the equalization cable: Two-post lifts use a cable system (over the overhead beam or under the floor) to synchronize the two carriages. If the cable has stretched, frayed, or jumped off a sheave, the sides will not track equally. Inspect the cable, sheaves, and tensioning hardware.
2. Check the slide blocks: Worn or damaged slide blocks on one side create more friction, slowing that carriage. Lubricate or replace as needed.
3. Check for a bent arm or carriage: If one arm was struck by a vehicle or overloaded, the carriage may be binding in the column. This requires professional inspection.
For four-post lifts:
1. Check all equalization cables or chains: Four-post lifts use multiple cables or chains. If one is stretched or broken, the platform tilts during raising. This is a car lift troubleshooting guide Iowa issue that is more common on older four-post lifts with original cables that have never been replaced.
2. Check the sheave bearings: A seized sheave bearing on one side adds resistance, causing that side to lag. Sheave bearings should spin freely by hand.
3. Level the runways: Use a spirit level on both runways when the lift is at the same height. If one side is consistently low, the cable system needs adjustment.
Problem: Loud or Unusual Noises
Grinding noise during raising:
- Carriage roller bearings or slide blocks are worn or dry. Lubricate immediately. If grinding continues, the rollers or blocks need replacement.
- Pump gears are worn. The pump may be near end of life.
Chattering or knocking during raising:
- Air in the hydraulic system. Check fluid level. Bleed air from the system by cycling the lift several times without a vehicle.
- Loose mounting hardware. Check all bolts on the power unit, cylinders, and column bases.
Squealing during raising:
- Drive belt (on belt-driven pumps) is slipping. Adjust tension or replace the belt.
- Motor bearings are failing. A bearing squeal gets louder under load. This is a car lift troubleshooting guide Iowa problem that worsens quickly — replace the motor before it seizes.
Hissing when raised:
- Hydraulic leak at a fitting or hose. Pressurized fluid escaping through a small gap creates a hiss. Find the leak by running your hand (carefully, not directly in the stream) near fittings to feel for escaping fluid.
Problem: Locks Will Not Engage
The mechanical locks are the ultimate safety device on every lift. If they do not engage, the lift must not be used until repaired.
1. Check for debris: Metal shavings, dirt, and rust can jam the lock mechanism. Clean the lock area thoroughly with a wire brush and compressed air.
2. Check the lock pawl and ladder: The lock pawl (the spring-loaded tooth) engages into the lock ladder (the notched bar on the column). If the pawl spring is broken, the pawl will not snap into position. If the ladder teeth are worn or chipped, the pawl cannot engage securely.
3. Check the lock release cable: The release cable that disengages the locks for lowering can stretch or break. If the cable is too loose, the locks may not fully engage. If it is broken, the locks will not release for lowering.
4. Column alignment: If the column is out of plumb (not perfectly vertical), the carriage may not align with the lock positions. This is a car lift troubleshooting guide Iowa issue related to foundation movement — particularly in spring when frost heave affects slabs.
Problem: Lift Will Not Lower
1. Check the down button and solenoid: Press the down button. If you hear a click from the control valve, the solenoid is energizing. If no click, the button circuit or solenoid coil may be faulty.
2. Check the lowering valve: The lowering valve controls fluid return from the cylinders. If it is stuck closed (debris on the valve seat), the fluid has no path back to the reservoir and the lift stays up.
3. Manual lowering: Most lifts have a manual lowering valve — a knob or screw on the control block that allows the lift to be lowered manually in case of electrical failure. Consult your lift’s manual for the location. Turn it slowly — the lift will lower under the vehicle’s weight.
When to Call a Professional
This car lift troubleshooting guide for Iowa covers the basics, but certain problems require professional service:
- Any structural damage to columns, arms, or carriages
- Cylinder rebuild or replacement
- Pump rebuild or replacement
- Electrical problems beyond a tripped breaker or blown fuse
- Cable replacement on equalization systems
- Any situation where you are not confident in the diagnosis
Auto Lift Services provides same-day emergency response across the Des Moines metro and next-day service statewide in Iowa. We repair all brands — Challenger, Rotary, BendPak, Atlas, Forward, Mohawk, Dannmar, Stertil-Koni, Globe, Western, Benwil, and more.
Our Clients Include: