If you run a farm shop up around the Iowa Great Lakes and you’re finally ready to quit dropping oil pans while flat on your back in the gravel, forward car lift parts are probably already on your mind before you’ve even picked a model. We get calls every month from guys with a Quonset building and three tractors, two pickups, and a combine that all need attention, asking what it actually takes to keep a Forward lift running once it’s bolted down. Before you sign anything, there are a handful of questions about configuration, cables, and availability that will save you a headache two years from now when a part breaks and you’re waiting on a truck.
Search by lift model or part number and we’ll confirm fit and lead time before you order anything for your shop.
Why Farm Shops Doing Oil Pan Gasket Work Need to Think About Parts First
Most farm shop owners we talk to are buying a lift for one main job: getting a pickup or a service truck up high enough to work on an oil pan gasket, a transmission pan, or a leaking rear main without crawling on a creeper. That’s smart, but it’s also exactly the kind of repetitive, greasy work that chews through forward car lift parts faster than a shop that only lifts vehicles occasionally for inspections. Cables, pulleys, and hydraulic seals all see more cycles when you’re running the lift daily during calving season repairs or planting-time truck fixes.
We tell people to think about the whole lifespan of the equipment, not just the sticker on day one. A lift that’s cheap up front but uses a proprietary cable set or a cylinder that’s hard to source will cost you more in downtime than you saved. Forward has been a solid, dependable brand for us over the years, and knowing that forward car lift parts are generally available through normal channels matters a lot when you’re two hours from the nearest dealer and can’t afford three weeks of a truck sitting on a dead lift during harvest season.
Overhead vs Baseplate: The Configuration Decision That Drives Everything Else
This is the single biggest fork in the road for a farm shop, and it changes which forward car lift parts you’ll need down the line. An overhead configuration runs the cables and pulley system across the top of the lift, which keeps the floor completely clear underneath and beside the vehicle. If your shop doubles as equipment storage or you’re rolling a wide box truck in and out, overhead keeps things simple and out of the way of tall implements.
A baseplate configuration, on the other hand, ties the posts together with a floor-level plate, which means no overhead structure to hit your loft or rafters, but it does create a lip you have to drive over and work around on the ground. For shops with lower ceiling clearance in an older pole building, baseplate is often the only option that fits. The tradeoff is that baseplate lifts typically route cables differently, and replacement cables or floor-level cylinder lines can be a slightly different animal than an overhead unit. We always ask for ceiling height, floor thickness, and whether you plan to store anything overhead before we recommend one configuration over the other, because retrofitting later means sourcing an entirely different set of forward car lift parts than what you started with.
What to Check on the Cylinder and Cables Before You Buy
A lot of the pre-purchase checklist comes down to two systems: hydraulics and cables. On a used or demo Forward lift, ask to see documentation on the cylinder, whether it’s ever been reseated or rebuilt, and how it was stored. Cylinders that sat outside or in an unheated building through Iowa winters are more prone to seal issues, and a reseal job is a lot easier to plan for before you buy than after the lift is already down.
Cables are the other piece. We’ve measured out full cable sets for Forward-style lifts down to the inch — steel cable runs that are 20-plus feet long with specific stud button ends, and getting even one length wrong means the cable won’t seat right in the sheave. If you’re buying used, ask the seller for the model and serial number so we can pull the exact cable specs before delivery day. Ordering forward car lift parts against a guess instead of a verified serial number is the single most common reason a repair job stalls out waiting on a return shipment.
Freight, Concrete, and Install-Day Logistics for a Farm Shop
Farm shops are often set up differently than a typical repair garage, and that changes how an install goes. We need to know ahead of time whether there’s a forklift on site to help unload freight, because a Forward lift arrives in heavy crated sections and a residential driveway drop-off just doesn’t work. We also ask about concrete thickness and age, since anchoring a lift into a slab that was poured for tractor storage decades ago sometimes needs extra attention before we can bolt anything down.
Lead times matter here too. Depending on the configuration and options, some Forward parts and full units run a several-week lead time from the manufacturer, so if you’re planning around a slow season between fieldwork, order early rather than assuming it’ll show up next week. We coordinate delivery and installation as a package whenever we can, so the crated lift, the anchors, and the crew showing up to bolt it together all land close to the same week instead of stretching your shop’s downtime longer than it needs to be.
Stocking Spare Parts Before You Need Them
Because farm shops are often far from a parts counter, we recommend keeping a small stock of wear items on hand rather than waiting for a failure. Cable sets, common cylinder seals, and a spare set of anchor bolts are inexpensive insurance against a truck sitting stuck mid-air during a busy week. We’ve had customers call us in a panic because a cable frayed on a Friday afternoon before a weekend of scheduled repairs, and having forward car lift parts already on a shelf instead of on a truck somewhere would have saved that entire weekend.
We can set up a basic parts kit specific to your lift’s configuration and serial number when we do the install, so you’re not guessing later. It’s a small add-on cost at the time of purchase that pays for itself the first time something wears out during your busiest season, rather than your slowest one.
Warranty Coverage and What It Actually Covers
Ask your dealer directly what’s covered under warranty and for how long, because coverage on cylinders, cables, and structural components can vary. We’ve handled warranty claims where the manufacturer has a set reimbursement amount for labor and parts, and it helps everyone if that’s understood up front rather than negotiated after a repair is already done. Keep your paperwork and serial number handy from day one, because any future forward car lift parts claim will need it.
We also recommend asking whether the installer offers any kind of service relationship after the sale, not just a one-time install. A farm shop that only uses its lift a few times a month still needs somebody who’ll pick up the phone when a part fails during planting season, not a call center that takes three days to respond.
Getting the Right Advice Before You Commit
The best pre-purchase checklist is really just a conversation with someone who installs these lifts regularly across Iowa, not just a spec sheet. We look at your building, your typical repair work, your floor, and your budget before recommending overhead versus baseplate, and we talk through what forward car lift parts availability looks like for the specific model you’re considering. That conversation up front is worth more than any brochure.
If you’re weighing a Forward lift against other brands for your farm shop, ask us directly what we’d choose for your situation. We’ve installed enough of these across the state to know which configuration holds up best for daily oil pan and gasket work versus occasional heavier jobs, and we’d rather tell you honestly than sell you the wrong setup.

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