A 2 post car lift is the single best investment a restoration shop can make once suspension and shock replacement becomes a daily part of the workload, and we hear that exact question from Davenport shop owners more than almost any other. We’re Auto Lift Services, based in Ames, Iowa, and we install and service lifts all over the state, including plenty of runs down to the Quad Cities. When a shop owner tells us they’re tired of floor jacks and jack stands for every strut swap, we walk them through the same decision tree every time: budget first, then slab, then configuration. This article is that conversation, laid out the way we’d give it to you over the phone.
Browse Rotary and Challenger two post lifts sized for restoration and suspension work, then call us for a Davenport-specific install quote.
Step One: What’s Your Real Budget for a 2 Post Car Lift
Every decision tree starts with money, so let’s be honest about it. A base-model 9,000 lb two post lift with basic asymmetric arms is going to sit at the entry end of the range, while a heavier duty 10,000 or 12,000 lb unit with taller columns and longer arms for full-size trucks climbs from there. Add installation, and if your shop doesn’t have 220V run to the bay yet, add electrical work on top of that. We tell restoration shop owners in Davenport the same thing we’d tell anyone: don’t buy based on what fits your current fleet of project cars, buy based on what you’ll be lifting in three years.
Suspension and shock work specifically rewards spending a little more up front. You’re going to be cycling the lift up and down constantly during a strut swap, dropping the car partway to check ride height, raising it again to torque control arms. Cheaper lifts with worn-out equalizer cables or underpowered hydraulic packs feel that abuse fast. We’ve rebuilt more than a few cylinders on lifts that got run hard in restoration bays, and the pattern is always the same: the shop bought the cheapest unit that technically met the weight rating, then paid for cable and cylinder work within a couple years anyway.
Step Two: Concrete Slab Thickness Before You Order Anything
This is where most Davenport shop owners get surprised, because nobody mentions it until the installer shows up. Most 2 post car lift manufacturers require a minimum of 4 inches of properly cured concrete, but that’s a floor, not a target. We strongly recommend closer to 5 to 6 inches for a heavier duty unit or for older Davenport buildings where you’re not entirely sure what’s under the existing slab. Rebar matters too — many older shop floors in this part of Iowa were poured with wire mesh instead of proper rebar, and mesh alone doesn’t give anchors the pull-out strength a two post lift’s columns need under load.
Before we ever quote installation, we ask about slab age and whether there’s any documentation on the pour. If a shop can’t tell us, we recommend a core sample or at minimum a visual inspection of any exposed edges or drains. We’ve had to walk away from installs, or push them to a different bay, because the existing slab simply wasn’t going to hold anchors reliably. It’s a lot cheaper to find this out before the lift arrives on a truck than after our crew is standing in your bay with a rented core drill and bad news.
Step Three: Symmetric vs Asymmetric Arm Configuration
Once budget and slab are settled, configuration is next. For a restoration shop doing heavy suspension and shock work, we almost always steer customers toward asymmetric arm two post lifts rather than symmetric. Asymmetric arms shift the car’s weight distribution so the front arms are shorter and the rear arms longer, which opens up door swing and gives techs better access to work under the front end without column interference. When you’re pulling struts or swapping control arm bushings, that extra clearance around the front wheel wells matters every single time you’re on your knees with an impact gun.
Symmetric arm lifts still have their place, particularly in general repair shops running a mixed bag of vehicles where balanced weight distribution front-to-back is more important than door clearance. But for a shop that’s built its business around classic car and hot rod restoration, where you’re constantly accessing wheel wells, frame rails, and rocker panels, asymmetric wins almost every time. We walk this decision through with every Davenport customer before arms ever get ordered, because swapping arm style after installation isn’t a simple fix.
Step Four: Weight Rating for Restoration and Classic Work
Restoration shops tend to underestimate weight rating because classic cars feel lighter than they are, especially once you factor in a full frame, a period-correct engine swap, or added steel from bodywork. A 9,000 lb rated 2 post car lift covers most passenger cars and light trucks with margin, but if your bay regularly sees heavier trucks, vintage Broncos with aftermarket armor, or anything with a diesel swap, we push customers toward the 10,000 to 12,000 lb range instead. It costs more upfront but it’s cheap insurance against buying twice.
We also ask about wheelbase. Longer classic trucks and some full-size sedans need enough arm reach and column spacing to actually clear the frame rails, and we’ve had customers order a lift only to discover their longest project vehicle’s wheelbase didn’t quite fit the column spread they chose. Checking your longest and heaviest vehicle against the lift’s published specs before ordering saves a return shipment and a redo on the slab anchors.
Step Five: Electrical and Bay Layout Realities
Nearly every two post lift on the market runs on 220V single phase, which means older Davenport shop buildings sometimes need an electrician before installation day. We ask this question early in every quote conversation because it changes the timeline. If your bay only has 110V service, plan on a licensed electrician pulling new circuit before our crew shows up, otherwise the install gets delayed on-site, which nobody wants.
Bay layout matters too. Column spacing needs enough width for your widest vehicle’s doors to open fully, plus walking room on both sides. We’ve measured plenty of Davenport bays where the previous equipment left just enough clearance for a sedan but not for the full-size trucks a restoration shop increasingly works on. Measure twice, because moving a two post lift’s anchor pattern six inches after the concrete work is done means starting the slab prep over.
Step Six: Installation Scheduling and Freight Logistics
Once the lift is ordered, logistics questions come up fast: is there a loading dock or forklift on site, is there a pit or is this a straight slab install, and what’s the lead time on the actual unit versus the install crew’s schedule. We ask about forklift access on every quote because freight carriers won’t hand-unload a crated two post lift, and if a shop doesn’t have equipment on-site, we build that into the install plan ahead of time rather than discovering it truck-side.
Lead times vary by manufacturer and season, and we’re upfront that Rotary and Challenger units can run anywhere from a few weeks to a couple months depending on current backorders. We coordinate our install crew’s Davenport trip around your freight delivery so the lift doesn’t sit crated in your bay for weeks waiting on us, and so our crew isn’t standing around waiting on a late truck either.
Step Seven: Ongoing Maintenance for Suspension-Heavy Use
A shop that runs suspension and shock replacement daily puts more cycles on cables, pulleys, and hydraulic seals than a general repair bay. We recommend a basic lube and inspection routine more frequently than the standard annual check, since equalizer cables under constant partial-raise, partial-lower cycling wear faster than cables on a lift doing full-up, full-down cycles all day. Catching a fraying cable early is a quick, inexpensive fix. Catching it late means an emergency service call and a bay out of commission.
We also tell restoration customers to keep an eye on arm restraint pins and locking mechanisms, since those get more use in a shop doing repeated partial lifts for ride-height checks. A seized arm restraint isn’t dangerous by itself, but it’s a sign the lift isn’t getting lubed on schedule, and that pattern eventually shows up in cylinders and cables too. Our service team covers this kind of preventive work across Iowa, and it’s almost always cheaper than the alternative.

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