Looking for an Automotive Lift for sale? 

Experience America’s Highest and Most Reviewed Car Lift Installation, Repair, Inspection, and Hydraulic Cylinder Service Company Today!

Car Lift Repair Ames Stars

Read Reviews Buy a Lift

Our Clients Include:Social Proof Car Lift Repair Ames Auto Lift Services

2 Post Lift Cables: A Pre-Purchase Checklist for Cedar Falls Garages

Alignment Machine For Sale Boca Raton, FL

Contact Us

If you’re a weekend mechanic in Cedar Falls shopping Facebook Marketplace or a used equipment lot for a 2-post lift to finally get oil changes off the creeper and up in the air, the single most overlooked item on your inspection list is the 2 post lift cables. Everybody kicks the tires on the arms, checks for rust on the columns, and asks if the lift runs — but the cables are what actually keep that car suspended over your head, and they’re the cheapest thing to replace correctly and the most expensive thing to get wrong. We install and service lifts across Iowa, and we’ve seen plenty of “great deal” lifts that needed cable work within the first month.

Shop Lift Cables →

Find the correct equalizer cable set for your make and model before you commit to a used lift. We stock cables for Rotary, BendPak, Challenger, and most generic imports.

Why Cables Matter More Than the Paint Job on a Used Lift

A used lift with fresh paint and clean hydraulics can still be a hazard if nobody’s touched the 2 post lift cables in a decade. These cables are the equalizer system — they keep both columns rising and locking at the same rate so the lift doesn’t tip a car sideways off the arms. Sellers rarely think about them because the lift “works fine” in their garage, but working fine and being safe for a home garage with your own vehicle on it are two different standards. We’ve had calls from Iowa hobbyists who bought a lift, used it twice, and then noticed one side sitting noticeably lower than the other — classic sign of a stretched or fraying cable that’s about to let go.

For a weekend mechanic doing oil changes and fluid service, you’re under that car a lot more than a quick-lube tech is. You’re draining oil, dropping pans, sometimes pulling a starter or a exhaust section. That’s exactly the position you don’t want to be in if a cable snaps. Before you hand over any money, ask the seller directly when the cables were last replaced. If they don’t know, assume they’re original and budget accordingly. It’s a fair negotiating point too — knock the price down by the cost of a cable set and install labor, and you walk away with genuine peace of mind instead of a mystery.

The Visual Inspection: What to Look For Before You Buy

Bring a flashlight when you go look at a used lift, because most sellers have their garage lit for general use, not for inspecting steel cable strands. Get down and look at each cable along its full length, especially where it wraps around pulleys and where it clamps to the carriage. You’re looking for broken strands (little wire hairs sticking out, sometimes called “fishhooking”), rust or discoloration, and any flattening or kinking. A cable with even one or two broken strands has already failed structurally, no matter how it looks otherwise, and needs replacing immediately regardless of price.

Next, ask the seller to run the lift up and down a few times while you watch the columns. Both sides should rise and lower in sync, staying level with each other within an inch or so. If one side lags or the lift needs manual adjustment to stay level, that’s a stretched cable telling you it’s near the end of its life. Also check the equalizer cable tension adjustment nuts — if they’re maxed out with no more threads to take up slack, the cable has already stretched as far as it can be compensated for and needs replacing soon. None of this should scare you off a used lift entirely, but it should absolutely factor into what you’re willing to pay.

Used vs. New: Running the Real Numbers

A lot of Cedar Falls hobbyists assume used is always cheaper, but once you factor in a full cable replacement, fresh anchor bolts, and possibly a hydraulic hose or two, a used lift can end up costing close to what a new entry-level 2-post runs — minus the warranty. If the used lift you’re looking at needs new 2 post lift cables plus other deferred maintenance, get a real quote on parts and labor before you negotiate. We quote cable jobs regularly and can usually tell you over the phone what a given brand and capacity will run.

On the flip side, a used lift from a shop that kept maintenance records and can show you when cables were last swapped is a genuinely good buy — you’re getting commercial-grade steel for a fraction of new cost. The decision framework really comes down to documentation and inspection, not age alone. A ten-year-old lift with two-year-old cables beats a three-year-old lift with original cables that have never been touched. Don’t let the model year fool you into skipping the inspection.

Matching Cables to the Right Lift Model

One mistake we see constantly: a buyer gets a used lift home, discovers the cables are shot, and then orders the wrong part because generic 2-post lifts vary wildly in cable length, diameter, and end-fitting style. Before you even close on the purchase, get the brand, model number, and capacity rating off the data plate — usually on the base of one of the columns. If there’s no data plate, take detailed photos of the cable routing and end fittings so whoever you call for parts can identify what you actually need.

This matters especially with older or off-brand lifts that have been resold multiple times, where the data plate might be missing or painted over. We deal with unbranded 9,000 and 10,000-pound 2-post lifts fairly often, and matching correct cable length and swage fitting style is the difference between a five-minute install and a frustrating return-and-reorder cycle. If you’re not sure what you’re looking at, send us photos before you buy — it’s a five-minute favor that can save you a wasted purchase.

What a Proper Cable Replacement Actually Involves

If your pre-purchase inspection turns up cables that need replacing, understand that this isn’t a bolt-on part swap you do solo in an afternoon unless you’ve done it before. Proper replacement means releasing tension safely, removing the old cables without letting a column drop, routing new cables through the correct pulleys, and re-tensioning both sides so the lift equalizes correctly. Skipping the re-tensioning step is how you end up with a lift that still leans to one side even with brand new cables installed.

We recommend budgeting for professional installation on your first cable job, even if you’re mechanically inclined, simply because the sequence and torque specs matter and getting it wrong means redoing the whole job. Once you’ve watched it done correctly, future cable swaps become a lot more approachable as a DIY task. For a hobbyist doing oil changes and basic fluid service, having a technician set the initial equalization correctly means years of trouble-free lifts afterward.

Maintenance That Extends Cable Life After You Buy

Once you own the lift and have confidence in the cables, a little routine attention goes a long way. Wipe cables down periodically and apply a light coating of the manufacturer-recommended lubricant to the exposed strands — this reduces friction at the pulleys and slows rust formation, especially in an unheated Cedar Falls garage where humidity swings are rough on exposed steel. Avoid pressure-washing directly at the cable and pulley areas, since forcing water into those zones accelerates corrosion from the inside.

Also get in the habit of doing a quick visual check every few months, not just when something feels off. Look at cable tension symmetry every time you raise the lift, and listen for any new grinding or popping sounds at the pulleys. Catching a fraying strand early means a simple cable swap; catching it late means an emergency repair with your vehicle stuck in the air. This small habit turns your 2 post lift cables into a non-issue for the life of your ownership rather than a recurring worry.

When to Call a Professional Instead of DIYing It

There’s no shame in calling in help for cable work, especially the first time. If you’re not confident releasing hydraulic pressure safely, if the lift is an unfamiliar brand with no manual available, or if you notice the columns aren’t just worn but actually bent or cracked, stop and call a professional. A cable failure mid-repair isn’t a inconvenience — it’s a genuine safety incident, and the cost of a service call is nothing compared to a vehicle coming down wrong.

We service and install 2 post lift cables across Iowa for hobbyists and shops alike, and we’re happy to walk a first-time buyer through what a used lift needs before you commit to buying it. If you’re weighing a used purchase in the Cedar Falls area, send us the details and photos and we’ll give you an honest read on what you’re looking at and what it’ll cost to make it safe.

About the Author

Josiah Ragsdale is the founder of Auto Lift Services. Based in Ames, Iowa, our team installs, services, and stocks parts for every major lift brand — from a home-garage 4-post through 30,000 lb commercial and 40K+ heavy-duty. Have a question or need a quote? Call 800-674-9302 or email [email protected].

Get in Touch

Schedule Your $1 First Service Call!