A dirt-track crew chief in east-central Iowa called us in February with a question we get every winter: which of the automotive two post lifts on the market makes sense for a race shop that mostly swaps CV axles, half-shafts, and rear ends between Saturday nights? He had a number in his head, a Quonset-style shop with decent concrete, and three weeks before the season started. What he did not have was a way to work through the tradeoffs. So we built him a decision tree — budget first, then capacity, then column style, then arms, then the parts-support question nobody asks until year four. Here it is, in the order we walked it.
Rotary and Challenger columns for commercial and race-shop use, plus BendPak and Atlas for home garages. Every capacity from 9,000 to 18,000 lb. Talk to a real installer before you buy — call 800-674-9302.
Step One: Set a Real Budget, Not a Wish Number
The crew chief opened with a figure in the low four thousands, which is the same number we hear from a lot of first-time buyers. It’s not an unreasonable starting point — there are entry-level columns in that neighborhood — but the number people quote is almost always the bare equipment price with nothing else attached. Freight on a two post is real money. Concrete work, if you need it, is real money. Installation, if you want it done right, is real money. And the accessories that make the lift actually usable for your work — truck adapters, drop-in extensions, a rolling bridge jack — add up fast.
So we reframe budget in tiers. The entry tier gets you a baseplate or overhead 9,000 to 10,000 lb column from a value brand, uninstalled, on a slab that already meets spec. The middle tier gets you a name-brand 10,000 to 12,000 lb unit with better arm geometry, a real parts pipeline, and professional install. The top tier is a 12,000 to 18,000 lb commercial column built for eight hours a day of cycling. For a race team running weekly teardowns, the middle tier is almost always the right answer. Cheap automotive two post lifts survive occasional hobby use fine; they get exposed by a shop that raises and lowers the same car fifteen times in a night chasing a suspension problem.
Step Two: Capacity — Race Cars Are Light, Haulers Are Not
This is where race shops make their one predictable mistake. A dirt late model or a modified is light — often 2,400 to 2,900 pounds with driver out. On paper any 9,000 lb column is massive overkill. So the temptation is to buy the smallest, cheapest unit on the lot.
Then October comes and somebody wants to put the dually tow rig up to change U-joints, or the crew’s daily-driver trucks need brake work in the off-season, or a customer car shows up because the shop takes side work to fund the season. Suddenly that 9,000 lb rating is the ceiling on what the building can do. We told the crew chief the same thing we tell farm shops: buy for the heaviest vehicle that will realistically roll through your door in the next five years, then round up one tier. He landed on 12,000 lb, which handles his hauler’s front axle work, three-quarter-ton pickups, and every race car in the trailer without breathing hard. The price delta between 10,000 and 12,000 lb on quality automotive two post lifts is modest — usually a few hundred dollars — and it is the cheapest insurance in the whole purchase. Capacity you don’t use costs you nothing. Capacity you need and don’t have costs you a job.
Step Three: Column Style — Clearfloor or Baseplate
The building decides this one, not preference. A clearfloor (overhead) two post runs the equalizer cables and hydraulic line through a beam across the top of the columns, leaving the floor between them completely open. That’s ideal for rolling transmission jacks, engine stands, and creepers, and it’s what most professional shops choose. The catch is height: you need enough ceiling for the beam above your tallest raised vehicle, typically 12 feet minimum and more for trucks.
A baseplate two post routes everything through a low plate across the floor between the columns. You give up a clean floor and gain the ability to install in a building with a low ceiling or an obstructed door track. We see baseplate units chosen constantly in converted pole barns and older garages with 10- to 11-foot walls. For the race shop, the Quonset roofline curved down at the sides but the center peak was tall, so we placed a clearfloor unit near the centerline and got full open floor — which mattered, because his crew rolls a low jack under the car constantly during CV axle and half-shaft work. Placement is half the install. We’ve saved more than one customer from a baseplate purchase just by re-siting the equipment eight feet over. Read more in our comparison of clearfloor versus baseplate designs.
Step Four: Arms, Adapters, and Low-Slung Race Cars
A race car is not a Camry, and the arms are where that shows up. Dirt cars sit low, have unusual frame rails, and often have no manufacturer lift points at all. Standard arms with tall rubber pads can be impossible to slide under a car with three inches of ground clearance and a mud cover hanging down.
The fix is three-stage telescoping arms with low-profile pads, plus a set of frame adapters. Three-stage arms retract shorter than two-stage, which lets them tuck in and reach a narrow frame rail without cranking the arm to an awkward angle. Low-profile pads get you under the car in the first place. For his tow rig, we added truck adapters — screw-up extensions that raise the pad to reach a pickup’s pinch weld or frame without stacking blocks, which is how people bend arms and drop vehicles. We also spent time on asymmetric versus symmetric configuration. Asymmetric automotive two post lifts rotate the columns slightly and use unequal arm lengths so the driver’s door opens between the posts, which is a real quality-of-life feature when you’re in and out of a car all night. For a race shop where the car goes up empty and stays up, symmetric handles heavier trucks better. He chose asymmetric because side work on customer cars was part of the business plan.
Step Five: Hydraulic Cylinder Seals and Rebuild Kits
Here’s the step nobody includes in a decision tree, and it’s the one that separates a lift you own for twenty years from one you replace in seven. Every two post column has a hydraulic cylinder, and every cylinder has seals that eventually wear. The question is whether your particular unit can be rebuilt or has to be replaced.
Quality columns use rebuildable cylinders. A seal kit — rod seals, piston seals, wipers, O-rings, sometimes a bushing — is inexpensive, and a competent tech can pull the cylinder, hone out light scoring, and reassemble in an afternoon. Bargain imports sometimes use welded or non-serviceable cylinders where the only option is a whole new assembly at many times the cost, if the part is even available. That is the hidden math behind cheap automotive two post lifts: the purchase saves you a thousand dollars and the first cylinder failure gives it all back. We told the crew chief to ask one question of any brand he considered — is a factory seal kit available by part number? If the answer is vague, walk. What kills seals prematurely is contaminated hydraulic fluid, so check the reservoir quarterly, change fluid on schedule, and never mix types. We stock seal kits and full cylinders and can cross-reference by model through our parts lookup.
Step Six: What He Bought, and How Season One Went
The crew chief ended up with a 12,000 lb asymmetric clearfloor column from a brand we support with parts, three-stage arms, low-profile pads, and a set of truck adapters. His slab tested at five and a half inches of good concrete, so no footing work was needed and we installed in a single day, ten days before his first heat race. Total spend landed above his opening number and below what he’d feared.
By August he told us the axle work was the smallest part of the payoff. Being able to put the car in the air in thirty seconds meant the crew checked things they used to skip — bent trailing arms, cracked brackets, a birdcage that had shifted. Two of those catches probably saved a DNF. He also lifted the hauler four times that season for brake and driveline work he would have paid a shop to do. The lesson we’d pass along to any race team or small shop shopping automotive two post lifts: work the tree in order. Budget in tiers, capacity one step up, column style by building, arms by vehicle, and parts support before price. Call us at 800-674-9302 and we’ll run it with you.

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