Restoration shops ask more of automotive two post lifts than almost anyone else, and the install prep has to reflect that. A small operator north of Ankeny runs three techs and a rotating stable of project cars — a couple of C10s, a Mustang shell, an early Bronco frame-off — and when he called us he wasn’t asking about capacity. He was asking whether he could weld under a raised body without setting his cable sheaves on fire, and whether his 1990s slab would take anchors. Those are the right questions. We’ve done this survey in shops from Council Bluffs to Dubuque, and the answers change the layout of the whole bay. Here’s what we walk through, and how two very different configurations compare once real restoration work starts.
Rotary and Challenger commercial two-post models, plus BendPak and Atlas for lighter-duty bays. We survey sites across central Iowa and quote install with the lift. Call 800-674-9302 to get your slab and ceiling checked first.
Why restoration work stresses a lift differently
A general repair bay puts a car up, does a job, and brings it down — maybe eight or ten cycles a day, each an hour or less. A restoration bay does the opposite: one vehicle goes up and stays up for two weeks while someone cuts rockers out of it. That low cycle count sounds easier on the equipment, and mechanically it is. What it’s harder on is everything else. Hydraulic seals sit under sustained load, locks carry weight continuously instead of momentarily, and grinding dust and weld spatter settle into cable sheaves, lock ladders, and cylinder rod wipers for days at a stretch.
That changes what we prioritize on a spec. We want mechanical locks that engage positively at close intervals so the hydraulic system isn’t the thing holding the car for a fortnight. We want cable routing you can shield or cover. We want arm restraints and pads rated for a bare unibody shell, which has fewer safe lift points than a complete car and often no pinch weld seam left to speak of. And we want the whole install laid out so a welder and a grinder can work under the vehicle without a torch cord snagging a column. When we compare automotive two post lifts for restoration shops, we’re really comparing how well each configuration tolerates a dirty, long-dwell, torch-heavy environment.
Configuration one: clear-floor overhead in a tall bay
The first configuration we spec for restoration is a clear-floor overhead unit — a Rotary SPO-family or Challenger clear-floor model — in a bay with 13 or more feet of clear height. The appeal is obvious the moment you watch someone drag an engine hoist, a body cart, and a rotisserie around under a lifted shell. Nothing crosses the floor. You can roll a full sheet of steel under the vehicle, park a welding cart dead center, and sweep the bay out with a push broom in one pass.
The install prep for this configuration is mostly vertical. We verify clear height under the lowest obstruction in the bay — not the peak of the truss, the bottom of the light fixtures and the door track. We confirm the overhead beam won’t foul a garage door in the open position, which in older Ankeny shop buildings it very often does, and we plan on relocating the opener or switching to a jackshaft unit. We also want to know where the electrical drop lands, because the power unit mounts on a column and the cord shouldn’t cross a walkway. On the maintenance side, the overhead cable trough is the one thing we tell restoration shops to blow out monthly — grinding dust turns into abrasive paste in a sheave groove. Done right, automotive two post lifts in this configuration give a restoration crew the most usable floor of any lift type, period.
Configuration two: baseplate in a low or obstructed building
The second configuration is a baseplate model, and it exists for buildings that can’t accommodate an overhead beam. Plenty of central Iowa shops are in older pole buildings or converted implement sheds with 11-foot sidewalls, exposed purlins, or a header that eats the last foot of usable height. In those bays, a baseplate two-post lets you run a car to nearly full rise where an overhead unit would top out at chest height on a tall body.
The prep tradeoff moves from vertical to horizontal. The cable channel crossing the drive-on area is low, but it’s there, and it’s the single biggest complaint we hear from restoration shops running baseplate iron. A body cart with small casters will fight it. A rotisserie will fight it. We plan the bay so the channel sits where you’re least likely to roll equipment across it, and in some installs we’ve recessed the channel into a saw-cut groove flush with the slab — that’s extra concrete work but it fully solves the problem. We also spec floor protection around the channel, because weld slag on the cable cover eventually becomes weld slag in the cable. Anchor prep is the same as overhead: minimum four inches of 3,000 PSI concrete for most 10,000 lb models, more for higher capacities. Between the two configurations, baseplate automotive two post lifts win on ceiling clearance and lose on floor freedom, and for restoration that’s a genuinely close call.
The slab survey: what we actually check
Concrete is where installs go wrong, and restoration shops are frequently in the oldest buildings. We’ve had a caller describe his slab as “about five inches, but maybe less,” which is the most common answer we get and the least useful. Our survey starts with a hammer test at the proposed anchor locations to listen for voids, then a core sample or a small test drill to measure actual thickness. We check for control joints and cracks within about eight inches of every anchor point, because an anchor set too near a joint has nothing to grip laterally. We look for radiant heat tubing, and we ask directly — one shop we quoted had PEX in the floor nobody remembered pouring.
If the slab doesn’t measure up, the fix is straightforward and not that expensive: saw-cut two pads under the column footprints, break out the old concrete, and pour engineered footings to the manufacturer’s spec. We’d rather do that than watch a column tip under an 8,000 lb truck. We also check slope. A restoration bay in a converted shed often slopes toward a drain, and while most two-post units tolerate a small amount of pitch with shims, there’s a limit before the columns are out of plumb and the carriages bind. Shim stacks have a maximum thickness in the manual for a reason. When we survey a site for automotive two post lifts, the slab report is the part that determines whether we’re quoting an install or a concrete job plus an install. Our concrete requirements article covers the numbers in more detail.
Layout, power, and welding around the columns
Once the slab passes, we lay the bay out on the floor with chalk before anything gets drilled. Standard two-post spacing puts the columns roughly 11 to 12 feet apart with about 12 feet of usable working width, and we want a minimum of three feet of walking clearance outside each column — more if you’re carrying long stock past it. Restoration shops need to think about material handling paths that a general repair bay doesn’t: where does an eight-foot piece of sheet metal come in, and does it clear the column and the power unit?
Power is usually a 220V single-phase circuit for a standard 10,000 lb unit, and it needs to land on the power-unit column, not across the bay. Run it overhead or in conduit along the wall; never let a cord lie in a bay where a creeper and a grinder live. For welding, two rules we hand every restoration customer: ground the workpiece directly, never through the lift structure, and shield the cables. Welding current that finds a path through a carriage, a sheave, and a cable will pit the strands and cause a failure you won’t see coming. A cheap welding blanket over the cable trough costs nothing compared to a cable set. We’ve replaced cables on automotive two post lifts that failed for exactly this reason, and the owner had no idea welding through the frame had done it.
Adapters, pads, and lifting a bare shell safely
Restoration lifting is the one case where the standard rubber pads that shipped with the lift often aren’t the right answer. A stripped unibody has no rockers to speak of, a frame-off project has frame rails but no body weight to stabilize it, and a partially disassembled car has a center of gravity nowhere near where the factory put it. We spec truck adapters, stackable extensions, and frame-cradle pads on nearly every restoration quote, and we tell shops to keep a set of hardwood blocks for the odd case.
The other half of this is discipline. Load a shell centered front-to-rear on the arms, lift it a foot, and shake it hard before you go higher. Set the locks — always, every time, on every configuration. Never leave a partially disassembled vehicle up overnight on hydraulics alone, and if you’re pulling an engine or a rear axle out of a lifted car, understand that you’re changing the balance while it’s in the air and stage jack stands under it before you cut. For frame-off work where a vehicle will sit for weeks, some shops we work with move the body to stands and use the lift for the chassis only, which is the safest workflow we’ve seen. Adapters and pads for most brands are in stock; our lift arm adapter guide walks through the common sets.
What our Ankeny site survey and install actually looks like
A survey takes us about an hour. We measure clear height at four points, test and core the slab, chalk the layout, trace the power path, and check door and lighting interference. Then you get a written recommendation naming a specific model and configuration, an anchor and shim plan, and any concrete work the install requires. If a bay won’t support what you want, we say so on the spot rather than at the loading dock. We’ve told shops to change bays, move a lift twelve feet, and in two cases to buy a four-post instead because their slab and their workflow made a two-post the wrong tool.
Installation itself is typically a single day for one unit — set columns, drill and set anchors, torque to spec, plumb and shim, hang the overhead or set the baseplate channel, mount and prime the power unit, cycle the lift, verify lock engagement at every notch, and load-test it. We hand over the ANSI/ALI inspection paperwork and set you up on an annual inspection cycle, which matters more in a dirty restoration bay than anywhere else. We stock cables, sheaves, locks, cylinders, and seals for every brand we sell, so a down lift doesn’t become a two-week wait. If you’re in Ankeny or anywhere in central Iowa and you’re weighing automotive two post lifts for a restoration or metal-fab bay, call 800-674-9302 and we’ll get the survey on the calendar. Our annual lift inspection overview explains what we check each year.

Our Clients Include: