We got a call a while back from a guy running a farm shop outside Davenport who does brake service and rotor swaps on the side for neighbors, and he found a used lift on a classifieds site for a price that seemed too good to pass up. That’s the situation that brings most people to us when they’re shopping automotive two post lifts secondhand: someone posted a lift, the price looks fair, and nobody wants to drive out, hand over cash, and find out three weeks later they bought a lift that’s worth a fraction of what they paid. We’ve inspected enough used lifts around Iowa to know exactly what separates a fair deal from a headache, and we’d rather walk you through it before you buy than after.
Browse new and reconditioned lifts, and call us before you buy used — we’ll help you check it out first.
Why Resale Value Matters for a Farm Shop Doing Brake Work
A farm shop that’s mostly doing brake service and rotor swaps doesn’t need the biggest four-post drive-on in the state. Automotive two post lifts are the right fit for that kind of work because they give you full access underneath the vehicle for caliper, rotor, and pad jobs without a runway getting in the way of your hands and tools. But because these shops often run lean, buying used isn’t unusual, and reselling a lift down the road when you upgrade or change what you’re servicing is just as common.
That’s where resale value comes in. A well-maintained two-post lift with documented service history, original cables, and a working safety latch system holds value a lot better than one that’s been patched together with mismatched parts. We’ve seen shops try to sell a lift with a cracked base plate or a motor that’s been swapped from a different brand, and buyers walk away fast once they start asking questions. If you’re buying, understanding what holds value protects your investment. If you’re selling later, keeping that lift in good shape now is what gets you a real offer instead of a lowball.
Check the Serial Number and Model Before You Drive Out
We get calls all the time from guys who found a used lift and don’t know the brand, model, or capacity. One caller near Norwalk had a used blue 9,000 lb two-post lift and needed a replacement button for the up switch and new safety latch cables, but he had no model or serial number to go on. That makes ordering parts a guessing game, and it should be a red flag before you buy, not after.
Before you hand over any money for automotive two post lifts being sold used, get the serial number, the model number, and a photo of the data tag. Text it to us or bring it by and we can usually tell you what you’re actually looking at, whether parts are still available, and roughly what that model is worth in today’s market. A seller who can’t produce that information, or who seems evasive about it, is usually a seller who knows something is wrong with the lift. That’s worth walking away from before you’re stuck ordering guesswork parts later.
Inspect the Cables and Safety Latch Mechanism
Cables and the safety latch mechanism are the two things we check first on any used two-post lift, and they’re also the two things sellers rarely mention up front. Cables stretch and fray with age and use, and a lift that’s been sitting outside or run hard for years will often need new cables before it’s safe to certify. The safety latch — the mechanism that keeps the arms from dropping if a cable fails — needs to engage cleanly on both columns, not just one.
If you’re buying a used lift for brake service and rotor swaps, you’re going to be working underneath it constantly, so this isn’t optional. We’ve replaced cables and latch parts on lifts where the owner didn’t even know the original brand, and it’s doable, but it adds cost you should factor into your offer. Ask the seller directly whether the cables have ever been replaced and whether the latch has ever failed an inspection. A lift that’s been maintained will have an answer. One that’s been ignored usually gets a shrug.
Concrete, Ceiling Height, and Whether It’ll Even Fit Your Bay
We ask every customer the same questions before an install: is there a pit, what’s your ceiling height, and is the concrete rated for the load. Farm shops built decades ago sometimes have thinner slabs than a two-post lift needs, especially anything rated 10,000 lb or above. Before you buy used automotive two post lifts and haul them home, measure your bay and check your concrete thickness, because a lift that doesn’t fit your building is a lift you’ll be reselling at a loss almost immediately.
We’ve installed symmetric two-post lifts for shops and schools around central Iowa, and the install questions are always the same regardless of whether the lift is new or used: do you have a forklift on site to help unload, is there clear overhead room for full-height columns, and does the slab meet the anchor spec. If a used lift is being sold without documentation of a prior install location or anchor pattern, plan on a fresh concrete inspection before you set it up. It’s a cheap step compared to finding out after the fact that your floor won’t hold the load.
Arms, Pads, and Whether Rotor Swaps Will Be Easy
For a shop focused on brake service and rotor swaps, arm reach and pad configuration matter more than they do for general repair work. You want arms that swing wide enough to clear wheels and give you a clean line to the rotor and caliper without fighting the lift geometry. Used lifts sometimes come with mismatched or aftermarket pads that don’t seat properly, which can make a rotor job take twice as long as it should.
When you’re inspecting a used lift, run the arms through their full range and check that the pads seat flush and lock. If the arms bind, or the locks don’t hold under load, that’s a repair cost you need to negotiate into the price. We stock adapter pads and arm restraint parts for most major brands, so this isn’t a dealbreaker, but it should factor into what you’re willing to pay. A lift with worn arm pins and sloppy pads is worth less than one that still swings tight and clean.
Motor, Pump, and Hydraulic Condition
A used lift with a weak motor or a leaking pump is one of the most common problems we run into on inspections. We’ve had shops call us about a two-post lift that won’t raise with any load on it at all, which usually points to a pump or motor issue rather than something minor. Before you buy, ask the seller to run the lift through a full cycle empty, then again with a vehicle on it. If it hesitates, strains, or leaks fluid anywhere along the columns or at the base, that’s a hydraulic problem you’re inheriting.
Rebuilding or replacing a motor and pump isn’t cheap, and it changes the math on what a used lift is actually worth. We can quote reseal kits and pump rebuilds if you’re set on a specific unit, but factor that cost into your offer before you agree to a price. A seller who’s asking full value for a lift with a bad pump is either unaware of the problem or hoping you won’t catch it — either way, that’s information that should lower your number.
What a Fair Trade-In or Resale Number Actually Looks Like
People ask us fairly often what their old lift is worth, whether they’re trading it in on something bigger or just selling it outright before an upgrade. The honest answer depends on brand, age, capacity, and documented maintenance — a lift with a full service history and original parts is worth meaningfully more than one with an unknown past, even if they look similar sitting in a bay. Automotive two post lifts from recognized commercial brands tend to hold value better than off-brand imports, simply because parts and service support stay available longer.
If you’re a farm shop near Davenport thinking about upgrading from a smaller lift to something rated higher for heavier trucks, or just cleaning out a bay, give us a call before you list it or take the first offer someone throws at you. We can look at photos, ask a few questions about model and condition, and give you a realistic range instead of a guess. That same conversation works in reverse if you’re the buyer — we’d rather help you avoid a bad purchase than fix one after the fact.
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