How to Replace 2-Post Lift Cables

The equalizer cables on a 2-post lift are the two cables that route over the upper and lower sheaves in each column, tying the two carriages together so they raise at the same rate. Only one column has a hydraulic cylinder pushing it up; the other follows because the cables force it to. You need this job when the cables fray, cord (unwind), rust badly enough to lose strand, or when one lock consistently clicks before the other. Working out how to replace 2-post lift cables is a very doable shop job, but the equalization and lock timing at the end is where it gets fussy — and on old asymmetric Forward lifts the two cables were different lengths, a long and a short, so which came off which side actually matters.

Tools and prep

Have ready: wrenches for the cable and jam nuts, a Phillips or impact driver for any access covers, a flashlight, a file for cleaning threads, a length of stiff wire for fishing cable ends, a vise grip, and the correct cable set. Make the lift safe first: never work under a lift resting on cables you do not trust. Get the vehicle off, lower the lift to the floor, and set it on the locks in the second position before you start. A rule that saves a wasted afternoon: before you cut anything off, route the new cables next to the old ones — do not remove the old ones yet — and check that the new length looks right. If it looks obviously wrong, stop and call the supplier before you proceed.

Step-by-step: how to replace 2-post lift cables

1. With cable length confirmed against the old set, raise the lift to the second lock position.
2. Remove the accessible cable nuts. Some cables live behind an access cover on the front of the carriage held on by Phillips-head screws.
3. Remove any equalizer-cable safety bolts — the small bolts that keep the cable from popping off a sheave.
4. Pull both old cables out. Note if one was longer than the other — on old asymmetric Forward 2-post lifts this matters.
5. Check the sheaves before you route new cable. Cracked, chipped, or heavily grooved sheaves will destroy a new cable in a year. Fix them now if you find issues.
6. Route the new cables. If one seems slightly long and one slightly short, try swapping them side to side. Check the threaded ends — welding slag in the threads will stop a nut from starting, so file it off.
7. The end of the cable that is impossible to reach with a wrench is the end you connect first, so you can pull the cable up into the accessible position afterward. Drop a piece of wire down into the carriage to hook the eye of the cable and pull it into position.
8. Tighten the lock nut so there are approximately 2 threads showing above the nut. Then attach the other end and adjust it to about 2 threads showing. Repeat on the second cable.
9. Equalizer cables are easiest to adjust with the lift all the way down. Verify neither cable is twisted, neither is rubbing anything, and both are seated in every sheave.
10. Raise the lift until you hear a lock click. Both locks should click at the same time. If one clicks first, keep adjusting until they click together.
11. Lower the lift and watch which side reaches the floor first — that shows you the last of the equalization. If you cannot get them equal no matter what you do, put a transit across the columns; the concrete under one column may be low and need shimming and grouting.
12. Once equalized, install the lock nuts and safety bolts. Cycle the lift twice empty to confirm it stays equal.

How to tell it’s time to replace

Cables are done when you see fraying, broken strands, cording where the cable turns a sheave, kinks, or heavy rust that has cost strand. Uneven lock timing that adjustment will not cure is another sign. While the columns are open, replace the wear items that share the cables’ hours: the upper and lower sheaves in both columns for wobble, chips, and groove wear; the sheave pins (light sand and anti-seize on reinstall); the lock ladders and lock pawls — if one side is not clicking cleanly, do not blame it all on the cables; and the lock-release cable if it is frayed or corded. Once you know how to replace 2-post lift cables, replacing sheaves in the same visit is a small add that protects the new set.

Safety

Never work under a lift resting on cables you do not trust. Lower it to the floor, get the vehicle off, and set it on the locks in the second position before you start. Use hand tools for the cable hardware — an impact will over-torque a cable nut and can damage the threaded rod inside the cable end. The equalization step is not optional busywork: a 2-post lift that raises unevenly is loading its columns and locks wrong. Doing how to replace 2-post lift cables correctly means the lift comes down dead even before you call it finished.

Common mistakes and how we avoid them

The classic mistake is cutting the old cables off before checking the new length against them — then discovering the replacement set is wrong with the lift already apart. Route the new cables alongside the old ones first, every time. The other common miss when working out how to replace 2-post lift cables is calling the job done as soon as both ends are bolted up. It is not done until the lift raises with both locks clicking together and lowers to the floor dead even; if it will not equalize no matter how you adjust, the concrete under one column is likely low and needs shimming and grouting, not more turns on the nut. A confident tech can handle how to replace 2-post lift cables in an afternoon, but the equalization is where patience pays.

We do this every week — how to replace 2-post lift cables is a job our field techs run in customer shops across the region, not a procedure we read out of a manual. If you get partway in and something does not match what you see, or a part looks wrong before you commit to it, call us at 800-674-9302 and we will walk it with you. When you are ready to order, find the exact parts for your lift in our parts lookup so you get the right fit the first time and finish the job in one trip.