The Two Post Install Checklist We Use on Every Job

If you’re planning a lift install, you need a real two post install checklist, not a vague list of “call a professional” bullet points. We’re Auto Lift Services, based in Ames, Iowa, and we’ve installed two post lifts in home garages, dealership bays, and heavy-duty truck shops all over the state. Every one of those jobs follows the same core checklist, whether it’s a light-duty BendPak in a hobbyist’s garage or a 12,000 lb Rotary in a commercial shop. This is the exact sequence we walk through before, during, and after setup, so you know what to expect and what can go wrong if a step gets skipped.

Step One: Confirm Concrete Before Anything Else

Every two post install checklist starts underground, not with the lift itself. We pull core samples or reference existing engineering drawings to confirm slab thickness, typically 4 inches minimum for most residential lifts and often more for heavier commercial capacities. We also check the age and cure of the concrete, since a slab poured within the last month hasn’t reached full strength and won’t hold anchors reliably yet.

We look for cracks, expansion joints, and prior patch work near the intended footprint, because anchors set too close to a joint will pull loose under load. If the slab doesn’t meet spec, we tell customers honestly rather than installing anyway and hoping for the best. A two post install checklist that skips concrete verification is the single most common reason we get called out to fix a lift that’s rocking or an anchor that’s backed out within the first year.

Step Two: Measure Ceiling Height and Bay Width

Before we bring a lift into the shop, we measure ceiling height, door clearance, and the width between the columns needed for the vehicles you actually drive. This step belongs early in any two post install checklist because it determines whether you need a low-rise, mid-rise, or full-height overhead lift. We’ve had customers order equipment online without checking header height, only to find out the arms clear the vehicle but the crossbeam clips a light fixture or HVAC duct.

We also account for column spacing relative to adjacent bays, garage doors, and support posts. A two post lift needs room to swing arms fully out on both sides, and tight columns are a common complaint when this step gets rushed. Getting this measurement right before delivery saves a return trip and keeps the install on schedule.

Step Three: Verify Electrical and Power Unit Placement

Most two post lifts run on a single power unit mounted to one column, and it needs a dedicated circuit sized to the motor, usually 220V single phase for residential units and sometimes three phase for larger commercial lifts. We check panel capacity and run conduit before the lift arrives whenever possible, because waiting until install day to discover an undersized breaker stalls the whole job.

We also plan power unit placement relative to the operator’s position, since the control switch needs to be reachable and visible from a spot where the operator can watch the vehicle rise. A two post install checklist that ignores electrical planning almost always results in extension cords running across the shop floor, which is both a tripping hazard and against most electrical codes for this kind of equipment.

Step Four: Layout, Anchor Pattern, and Column Plumb

Once concrete and clearance are confirmed, we lay out the exact footprint using the manufacturer’s template, checking square and centerline against the bay before drilling a single anchor hole. Column plumb matters more than most DIY installers expect. If a column is even slightly out of level, the arms won’t swing evenly and the carriage can bind as it travels, leading to premature wear on rollers and slide blocks.

We torque anchors to spec, not by feel, using a calibrated wrench and manufacturer torque tables specific to the anchor size and embedment depth. Every two post install checklist we run includes a documented torque value for each anchor, because under-torqued anchors are a liability issue and over-torqued anchors can crack the surrounding concrete. We double-check plumb on both columns after anchoring, not just before.

Step Five: Cable, Chain, and Hydraulic Line Routing

Two post lifts rely on either cables or hydraulic equalization to keep both columns synchronized as the vehicle rises. We route and tension cables according to spec, checking for fraying, kinks, or improper pulley alignment before the lift ever cycles under load. On hydraulic-synchronized models, we bleed lines fully and check for leaks at every fitting before running the lift to full height.

This step of the two post install checklist gets rushed more than any other because it’s tedious and doesn’t look dramatic. But uneven cable tension is exactly why some lifts tilt slightly during the first few cycles, and that’s a safety issue, not a cosmetic one. We cycle the lift empty several times, checking equalization at quarter, half, and full height before ever putting a vehicle on it.

Step Six: Arm Restriction, Pad Height, and Safety Locks

With the lift cycling correctly empty, we set arm restrictors so the arms can’t swing into a position that puts a vehicle off-center. We also check that safety locks engage audibly and visibly at each height increment, since a lock that doesn’t catch reliably is a completed install with a failed safety system, not a finished job.

We adjust rubber pads and adapters to match common vehicle lift points for the primary vehicles that will use the lift, whether that’s a daily driver, a lifted truck, or a mix of both in a commercial bay. A thorough two post install checklist includes running a real vehicle up to full height and checking for any drift, noise, or uneven load before calling the job complete.

Step Seven: Final Inspection, Documentation, and Load Test

The last stage of our two post install checklist is a full load test with an actual vehicle at rated capacity, cycled to full height and held for several minutes to confirm the locks hold without creeping. We inspect every fastener, hose, and cable connection one more time after this load test, since torque can settle slightly during the first real cycle.

We provide documentation of the install, including anchor torque values, load test results, and a maintenance schedule, so the shop or homeowner has a paper trail if the lift is ever inspected by an insurance carrier or OSHA. Whether you’re setting up your first home garage lift or your fifth commercial bay, following this checklist in order is what separates a lift that lasts fifteen years from one that needs constant adjustment.

If you want a second set of eyes on your own plan, our two post lift install checklist and two post install day checklist cover some of these steps in more detail, and our two post PM checklist is worth bookmarking for after the lift is running.

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