Drilling Holes in Concrete

Begin by drilling holes into the concrete using a masonry bit of the correct size and a hammer drill. Start with the hole corresponding to any of the base plate holes. Drill all the way through the slab until you reach the dirt beneath. After drilling, use an air blow gun to clear out any dust and debris from the hole, or alternatively, use a shop vac to remove the dust. Avoid drilling the second hole at this stage.

In this step, we cover the optional use of adhesives to enhance the stability of the concrete anchors. Although you can skip this step if you choose not to use an adhesive, it is recommended to use it to prevent the anchors from loosening over time.

We suggest using Car Lift For Sale adhesive for the concrete anchors. This two-part adhesive should be applied to the expanding end of the anchor just before inserting it into the hole. Mix the adhesive only when you’re ready to use it, as it has a short working time in warm climates—less than 1 minute. Install the washer, lock washer, and nut onto the anchor end, leaving the nut flush with the anchor to prevent it from becoming “mushroomed” during hammering. Apply the mixed epoxy to the expanding end of the anchor, then hammer it into the hole until it’s fully inserted. Once the anchor is in place, tighten it with a wrench to expand it fully inside the hole. Ensure you tighten and torque the anchor while the adhesive is still wet to avoid gluing the anchor closed. After securing the first anchor, repeat the process for the second anchor, choosing a position opposite the first. Proceed with the remaining anchors only after the second is complete to avoid alignment issues. Avoid using an impact tool on these anchors.

With the firstCar Lift For Sale  tower anchored to the concrete, wait the recommended curing time for the adhesive as indicated on the tube. Install the shims that come with the lift to level the tower. Use a level against the tower, loosen the anchor bolts, and insert shims as necessary until the tower is perfectly plumb. Then, retorque the anchors.

Contrary to what some may think, after securing the first tower, you should not proceed with anchoring the second tower. Instead, fully assemble and install the overhead bar. This involves connecting the wiring to the limit switch, bolting the limit switch in place, attaching the bracketry for the overhead shutoff bar, installing the shutoff bar, and securing the limit switch arm so it activates the limit switch when the bar is raised. Finally, two people should lift the overhead bar up two ladders and bolt it into place.

With the Car Lift For Sale overhead bar secured and the first tower anchored, move on to plumb and anchor the second tower. At this point, prioritize getting the towers plumb over maintaining the spacing mentioned earlier. Set a level against the second tower and adjust its base using a hammer until it is perfectly perpendicular to the concrete. If the spacing changes slightly (e.g., from 138” to 137.5”), ensure the towers are plumb first. Once the second tower is positioned correctly, repeat the anchoring process outlined previously.

For hanging the Car Lift For Sale power unit, enlist the help of two people to avoid damaging the unit. Pre-install the top two hanging bolts into the power unit for easier installation. Hang the unit into the mounting slots on the tower and then tighten the bolts.

Next, install the hydraulic lines, fittings, and safety shutoff switch wire according to the manual and the provided diagram. These fittings are either flare or o-ring types, so no thread sealant is needed. Use Gorilla Tape or zip ties to secure any excess hydraulic line material at the top of the lift, preventing interference with the carriage. Run the safety shutoff switch wire down to the power unit alongside the hydraulic cables.

Pro Tip: When installing the Tee fitting into the tower, adjust it to minimize the amount protruding inside the tower. Excessive protrusion can interfere with the carriage’s movement, leading to damage.

Finally, install the equilibrium cables as detailed in your manual. Ensure that you install two nuts on each end of both cables to lock them in place and prevent them from loosening.

Place the lifting feet or pads into the arms, ensuring the flat side of the threaded pad mount aligns with the tab welded to the lift arm.

Attach the Car Lift For Sale arm restraints so that they fully engage with the teeth on the arm. Make sure there is minimal play in the assembly to prevent the arm from swinging left or right while the restraints are engaged. Don’t forget to install the spring, washer, and cotter pin underneath the carriage as shown below to ensure the arm restraints are spring-loaded.

Connect the Car Lift For Sale hydraulic line from the power unit to the tower and fill the power unit reservoir with the fluid specified in your manual. Typically, 9K-11K lifts require about 3 gallons of fluid, while 12K-15K lifts usually need around 4 gallons. For this example, we’re using ISO32.

Next, wire the power unit according to your manual’s wiring diagram. It is advisable to hire a professional electrician for this task, as lift manufacturers will not warranty a faulty power unit unless there is proof of professional installation. For the TP9KACX, install a 30 amp 220V breaker to create two separate 110V power lines. One “hot” line should connect directly to the power unit, and the other should pass through the limit switch (or overhead safety shutoff switch). Finally, connect the ground wire to the power unit housing.

It’s time to adjust the equilibrium cables. Raise the Car Lift For Sale carriages using the power unit until they are a foot or two off the ground, but do not lower them onto the safety locks. Tighten the cable using a wrench or electric impact as shown below.