We are going to just jump right back in to our continuation of how to replace the sheaves on a 2 post lift for those who got cl10v3 challenger lift parts for sale from us here at auto lift services. And for a little background we are a lift repair, installation and sales company. We are located in Ames, Iowa. and we are proud to be located in Iowa. We are not all just farmers of corn and animals. We specialize in lift repair, installation, and sales. We however do not provide repair and installation across the whole united states of america. Some day we may do that but for the time being we work mostly just in iowa and specifically around the ames and des moines area. Which is in the heart of iowa which we are pleased to say is home for us. We started providing cl10v3 challenger lift parts for sale to our customer a few years ago and we have not stopped doing it since. It is our specialty. Anyways we last ended with talking about how to remove the cover on the lift that keeps you from getting to the sheaves that you need replace. So now that you have done that the next step is to take the e clip or otherwise known as the cotter key. It is connected to the pin that keeps the sheave on for the sheaves that are lower in comparison on the lift they are also called the lower sheaves. Lower sheave is more simple so that is what we will call it from here on out. Bear with me as we go through some of the technical terms to the parts of the lift. If you are not familiar with some of the terms and even my description of the parts or meanings and definitions you can feel free to call us automotive lift services folks and we can give some extra support and information. We always are happy to give additional support to anyone who buys cl10v3 challenger lift parts for sale from us. Next you need to pull the old sheave off of the lift and look at it and compare it to the new sheave that you are planning to put on the 2 post lift. You should do this so you can make sure that it is the correct sheave. Because if you put the wrong one on there it may not be tight enough and then it can cause some issues for the cables and other parts of the lift that function with the sheaves. Or the new one will just flat not fit onto the pin that holds it on. If you have a sheave that doesn’t fit we can help you find cl10v3 challenger lift parts for sale on our website. And if you still have issues finding cl10v3 challenger lift parts for sale give us a call and we will do all we can to help and make sure you get the parts you need to get your lift back up and running right again. Once you have determined that it is the same sheave as the original one you want to spray anti seize on to the new sheave. You need the anti seize on the sheave because it acts as a lubricant of sorts for the sheave and the cable and make sure you get that stuff all over the sheave on every part so that the whole thing is super slippery and lubed up. It just helps all the parts to work together well and work smoothly without scraping or scratching. Now put the good sheave into the lift on the outer edge of the overhead beam and it is also the side that the bushing is coming out of. As far as bushings go, that is also something that we carry for cl10v3 challenger lift parts for sale. They are similar to what would go on your vehicle but obviously a little different since it is for a cl10v3 lift that is a 2 post and i am not sure if there is a difference in bushing depending on the weight rating of the lift. There are 7,000 lb, 9,000 lb, 10,000 lb, and 15,000 lb there are also ones for semis and huge trucks and tractors and i think those fall into the 15,000 lb lift category. If you have any issues with putting the new sheave on something you can do to make it fit back on better would be to clean off the pin with some sandpaper then you can put the new sheave back on to it. This gets rid of any grime and dirt and oil that is making it hard to get the sheave on. A lot of gunk can get stuck in there and cause issues. That is why we carry some sandpaper to make that easier to deal with. If you don’t have any sand paper you can try and use a shop rag or a shop towel and scraper of scrub a lot of the dirt and grime off of it that just may take you a bit more time. Ultimately it does not matter how you get the dirt and junk off of it as long as you can get enough of it off to get that darn sheave to fit on the pin. Then you are good to go. I realize now that i missed a step before. To get the old bad sheave off of the pin you are going to need a hammer and you will hit the sheave out of the pin with a hammer and a punch. Not a punch from your hand. If you try that you may be paying a nice doctor bill. A punch is a tool that you use to remove the pin from the sheave or the sheave from the pin. Whichever way seems right to you. This may take a lot of hammering on your part. This is a better choice for anyone to use.
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