If you’ve noticed one side of your two post lift dropping faster than the other, or you’ve spotted frayed strands poking out near a cable end, it’s time to learn how to replace two post lift cables before that lift ends up stuck mid-air with a customer’s truck on it. We’re Auto Lift Services, an Iowa-based installer and parts supplier, and cable jobs are some of the most common service calls we run across the state. The good news is that replacing cables on a two post lift is a job most shop owners can tackle themselves with the right cable, a few basic tools, and a clear process — as long as you respect the safety steps along the way.
We stock cables sized and lengthed for Rotary, Challenger, BendPak, and Atlas two post lifts — order by model number and skip the guesswork.
Why Cables Wear Out and When to Act
Two post lift cables carry the full load of a vehicle every time you raise it, and that constant flexing over pulleys and sheaves eventually takes a toll. Wire rope stretches slightly with use, strands fatigue near the swage fittings, and grime works its way into the core, drying out the internal lubrication. Once you see broken outer wires, flat spots, kinking, or rust bleeding through the strands, that cable is done — it’s not a maintenance item anymore, it’s a safety item.
Most shops that run a two post lift daily get several years out of a set of cables, but usage, vehicle weight, and how well the lift gets cleaned all shorten or extend that window. We tell every customer the same thing: if you’re already asking how to replace two post lift cables because something looks off, don’t wait for a slow news week. A snapped cable on a loaded lift is one of the few failures on this equipment that can genuinely hurt someone. Catching wear early, during your regular inspection routine, turns this into a planned twenty-minute-per-side job instead of an emergency shutdown with a vehicle trapped overhead.
Tools and Parts You’ll Need Before You Start
Before you attempt how to replace two post lift cables on your equipment, get the right cable in hand first. Cables are not universal — length, diameter, and end fitting style vary by manufacturer and even by model year within the same brand. Pull your lift’s model and serial number and match the cable exactly; a cable that’s a few inches off in length will throw your equalization off no matter how carefully you adjust it afterward. We stock cables built for Rotary, Challenger, BendPak, and Atlas lifts, and matching by model number is the fastest way to get it right the first time.
On the tool side, you’ll want a step ladder or platform, a ratchet and socket set, adjustable wrenches, safety glasses, and gloves — cable strands are sharp even when they look fine. A grease pencil or marker helps you track equalization notches as you work. Have a jack stand or the lift’s own mechanical locks ready, because you’ll be working with the carriages unloaded and need them held securely at a working height. Never rely on hydraulic pressure alone to hold the lift steady while cables are off.
Step 1: Prep the Lift Safely
Clear the bay completely and raise the lift empty to a comfortable working height, then engage the mechanical safety locks. Disconnect power at the source before you touch anything — you do not want the motor cycling while your hands are near the sheaves. Loosen and remove any covers over the top pulleys or base cable routing so you have a clear view of the full cable path.
Take a photo of the current cable routing on the side you’re working before removing anything. Even though most two post lifts follow a standard path — up one column, across the top sheave, down through the carriage, and anchored at the base or opposite column depending on the design — small routing details vary between commercial and heavy-duty models. That photo saves real time when you’re threading the new cable back through later, especially on a lift you don’t service often. Loosen the equalization cable adjustment nut first so there’s slack to work with before you disconnect the old cable’s anchor point.
Step 2: Remove the Old Cable
With slack in the system, disconnect the cable at its lower anchor point, usually a nut and spring or a swaged stud fitting into a bracket. Work the cable free from the carriage attachment next, then feed it up and out over the top sheave. Pull slowly and watch for the cable catching on pulley guards or safety cable retainers along the way.
Inspect the sheave and pulley itself while the old cable is out — this is a good moment to check for grooved wear, flat spots on the pulley wheel, or a pulley that doesn’t spin freely anymore. A worn pulley will chew through a brand-new cable in a fraction of the time it should last, so if the sheave looks rough, replace it now rather than reinstalling the same worn part under a new cable.
Step 3: Install and Route the New Cable
Feed the new cable through the same path you photographed, starting at the top sheave and working down through the carriage guide and to the anchor point. Make sure the cable sits properly seated in the pulley groove — a cable that’s popped half out of its groove will bind or fray almost immediately under load. Reconnect the anchor fitting at the base or column bracket, tightening it to a snug fit without over-torquing the fastener.
Repeat the same process on the equalization cable if your lift design uses one, since most two post lifts use a secondary equalization cable to keep both carriages level with each other. This is the step people rush, and it’s exactly why so many DIY cable jobs end up back in our shop for a redo. Take the extra ten minutes to route it correctly the first time.
Step 4: Adjust Equalization and Test
Once both cables are installed, tighten the equalization adjustment nut gradually, checking that both carriages sit level with each other at the same height. Lower the lift slowly and watch both sides descend together — any noticeable lag on one side means the equalization still needs fine-tuning. Cycle the lift up and down empty several times, checking cable tension and listening for grinding or slack slapping against the column.
Only after several clean empty cycles should you load a vehicle, and even then, start with a lighter vehicle and watch the carriages closely during the first few lifts. If you’re not fully confident reading equalization on your specific model, or the lift still doesn’t sit level after adjustment, that’s the point to call in a technician rather than keep guessing at how to replace two post lift cables correctly on your own.
When to Call a Professional Instead
Some cable jobs are straightforward, and some reveal bigger problems once you get into them — a bent sheave bracket, a column that’s shifted slightly, or a hydraulic system that’s been compensating for worn cables for months. If your lift is out of level even after a proper cable adjustment, or you find damage to the column, carriage rollers, or safety lock mechanism, stop and get a trained set of eyes on it before putting a vehicle back on the equipment.
We install and service lifts across Iowa and get calls regularly from shops that started a cable job themselves and hit something unexpected halfway through. There’s no shame in that — better to pause and call than to push forward on a lift you’re not fully sure is safe. Our related guide on when to replace a two post lift covers the signs that a cable issue might actually be pointing toward a bigger equipment decision, and our page on two post lift cables breaks down the different cable types and specs in more depth. If your lift is a four post design instead, the steps differ enough that you’ll want our guide on how to replace 4 post lift cables rather than this one.
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